An excursion we recommend
An Evening on the Kahlenberg
This is not a big undertaking, and certainly not a hike. It is what many Viennese do when the afternoon is still open: up to the Kahlenberg, a stretch downhill through the vineyards, and then sitting on at a wine tavern until it gets dark. The city lies below you along the way. It needs no plan and no equipment, just a few hours.
Getting there
approx. 30 minutes by car
On foot
about an hour, easy and all downhill
Best start
between 5 and 6 pm
The Route
approx. 30 minutes up to the Kahlenberg
By taxi or Uber from the centre. By public transport: U4 to Heiligenstadt, then bus 38A.
Kahlenberg
484 m. The view over the Danube, the rooftops and the vineyards.
approx. 35 minutes down to the Nussberg
First under trees, then the view opens onto the vine rows. Downhill all the way.
Nussberg
Buschenschanken among the vines, all in the open air.
approx. 30 minutes down to Nussdorf
On through the vineyards, until the first lanes begin below.
Nussdorf
Wine taverns with courtyards, and tram D back into town.
The Stops
Kahlenberg
The evening starts here. From the terrace the view runs across the Danube, over the roofs of the city and far out into the plain. A good place to stand still for a moment before heading down.
484 metres. Come by taxi or Uber, or take the U4 to Heiligenstadt and then bus 38A.
Wieninger am Nussberg
A Buschenschank set among the vines: tables in the open air, cold Viennese dishes, biodynamic wine, and the city lying below in the evening light.
Eichelhofweg 125, 1190 Vienna
April to October. Thu from 2 pm, Fri and Sat from 12 noon, Sun and public holidays from 11 am, each until 10 pm.
Or just next door
- StiftStifterl, Eichelhofweg 128. Wine from Stift Klosterneuburg, the same hours as its neighbour. On Saturday afternoons there are sometimes alpacas in the vineyard.
- Monte Nucum, Eichelhofweg 117. Deck chairs instead of benches, entirely outdoors.
- Windischbauer, on the south slope, right among the vines. Opens on fine weekends only, usually from 3 pm.
- Mayer am Nussberg, Kahlenberger Strasse, opposite no. 210. A large garden and warm dishes too.
Heuriger Schübel-Auer
The walk ends in Nussdorf, at the house of a winemaker, with a courtyard. The Schübel-Auer calls itself a Kultur-Heuriger: classic Viennese cooking, now and then rethought, with Grüner Veltliner and Gemischter Satz from its own vineyard. Tram D stops right opposite, at a halt named Beethovengang, after the walks the composer took here.
Kahlenberger Strasse 22, 1190 Vienna
Tue to Thu from 5 pm, Fri and Sat from 3.30 pm, each until 11 pm. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Or down in Heiligenstadt
- Mayer am Pfarrplatz, Pfarrplatz 2. Daily from 12 noon, so also when the Schübel-Auer is closed. Beethoven lived in this house in 1817 and worked on his Ninth Symphony. From 7 pm the Heuriger musicians play.
- Kierlinger, Kahlenberger Strasse 20. Right next door, with a courtyard under linden and chestnut trees two hundred years old.
Good to Know
No booking. You simply sit down. Up in the vineyards nobody takes reservations anyway, and down in the village there is almost always a table. Only larger groups should call ahead.
Shoes. The path through the vineyards is a dirt track and slippery after rain. If you are not dressed for that, simply walk down the Kahlenberger Strasse instead. It is paved and perfectly fine in ordinary shoes.
Open or not. The Buschenschanken up in the vineyards are open from April to October, usually Thursday to Sunday and only in fine weather. There are no fixed hours up there. Down in Nussdorf and Heiligenstadt they open all year round, Mayer am Pfarrplatz every day.
Daylight. The path through the vineyards is unlit. Summer evenings stay bright for a long time; in autumn it is better to set off an hour earlier.
Getting back. From Nussdorf, tram D runs back into the city centre without changing; the stop is opposite the Schübel-Auer. Taxis come on request.
Vienna looks different from up here. Enjoy the walk, the views, and the lingering.
