The Elmayer dance school, founded in 1919 by Willy Elmayer-Vestenbrugg, is a Viennese institution: this is where debutantes train for the Opera Ball, where the hand kiss and the left-turning waltz are still taught as if the monarchy had ended yesterday. The halls are in the old stables of Palais Pallavicini, right behind the Hofburg.
For guests a waltz workshop is the quickest way to get Vienna into the body: basic step, turn, posture, and after an hour the group is spinning across the hall to Strauss. With a wink, but meant seriously.
